The IncrEdible Coconut

By Sonia R. Martinez

Coconuts have been cultivated for so long and become so naturalized on tropical shores all around the world that the origins are unknown.

The coconut palm (Cocos nucifera) is one of the most useful tree species to mankind and was one of the canoe plant crops brought by the early Polynesians settling the Hawaiian Islands.

There is a South Seas saying that, he who plants a coconut tree plants everything he needs. Considered the “tree of life” because it can provide food, drink, fiber, material for habitation and roofing, cooking and serving utensils, musical instruments, clothing, and medicine, it can also be a source of heat and much more. Buttons, hair ornaments, and so many other tools can be made from the coconut shells, with baskets, hats, and other useful items woven from the fronds.

Although peak season is from September through January, ripe coconuts can be found year-round across the Hawaiian Islands. Vendors sell and will cut open the stem end in front of you at markets and other island events so you can quench your thirst with the delicious juice in the freshest way possible.

The coconut is not really a nut, but a seed, belonging to the family of fruits called drupes, or stone fruits, and are thus related to dates, apricots, plums, nectarines, and peaches.

The edible part of the seed is inside the inner “nut.” Before it ripens, the internal flesh is jelly-like and can be eaten with a spoon scraping it right off the shell (wonderful with a sprinkle of brown or coconut sugar). As it matures, the flesh solidifies, turning into coconut meat; the meat is kept moist by the thin, opaque coconut juice or water.

Coconuts found in markets have usually had the green outermost husk removed. This is a labor-intensive step in the process and takes someone who is highly skilled with a machete to do it quickly. The brown hairy shell inside the husk surrounds and protects the fruit’s meat and juice. There are three germination pores (stoma) or “eyes” that are clearly visible on the outer surface of this shell. It takes about a year for the green coconut to ripen and harden to the stage where it can be broken in pieces and grated.

When buying fresh ripe coconuts, make sure that there is no moisture in the eyes of the nut, that the shell is not cracked, nor does it emit any sour or acrid smell. It should feel heavy, and you should also be able to hear the water sloshing inside when shaken. They can be stored at room temperature for several weeks after harvesting, sometimes even months, if kept in the shade.

Cleaning out a coconut shell to use as a serving vessel

Punch out the “eyes” at the end of the “nut” with an ice pick; drain the juice or water, reserving for other uses. With the claw end of a hammer, working along an imaginary line, tap sharply all around the middle of the nut, until both halves come loose. Scoop out the coconut meat and grate for other uses.

Making Coconut Milk

Grating the meat across the grain or using a fine blade in a food processor makes coconut milk. Add the coconut water and 1/2 cup of warm water; let stand an hour, and then squeeze through a jelly bag or several layers of cheesecloth. It may be frozen for later use.

Freezing Coconut Meat

Coconut meat can be frozen in chunks or grated. If you wish, you can lightly sprinkle with sugar and store in a freezer bag or in any airtight container. It can last for one to two years if all air is taken out. Be sure to date the container.

Although the traditional coconut dessert in Hawai‘i is haupia, a pudding-like custard originally thickened with the grated root of the pia (Polynesian arrowroot), another of the ‘canoe plants.’ I would like to share a typical coconut dessert from Cuba; the dulce de coco, a very simple coconut sweet.

Dulce de Coco
2 C grated coconut
3 C sugar
1 can of coconut milk (13.5 ounce)
1 stick cinnamon (optional)

Dissolve the sugar in the coconut milk in a saucepan at medium high on stove. When it starts boiling and gets glossy looking, add the coconut, stir, and turn heat down.

When the liquid has evaporated by about half and the mix is thicker, remove from the heat, let cool, and refrigerate. It will thicken as it cools. Serve in individual dishes as is, over pound cake or ice cream.

Note: The older and harder the coconut meat, the whiter the dulce. If using fairly fresh coconut meat, as I did, the meat will start turning a bit brown by air oxidation, sort of like an apple or pear, but the hot cooking syrup will stop the browning.

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