A Hidden Gem: Historic Honomū—Local Businesses Join Forces to Mix the Old with the New
By Megan Moseley
As locals and visitors alike stroll through the town of Honomū on their way to Akaka Falls, the remnants of yesteryear cannot be overlooked.
Visiting Honomū, Hawaiian for “silent bay,” is like stepping into another time and place completely. With its paniolo-style architecture and historic landmarks, this quaint town appears to be preserved in the olden days.
While the area’s yore draws people in, the people and the businesses of this former plantation neighborhood are giving the place a facelift in hopes of putting Honomū back on the map.
From Then to Now
“Everything has changed so much,” recalls retired Honomū postmaster Marilyn Da Sa.
Marilyn, now 80, was born and raised in Honomū. She’s an island girl who married an island boy. She grew up in Camp 45 surrounded by people from all around the world who moved to town to work at the Honomū Sugar Factory (where both her mother and her husband were employed for most of her life).
Marilyn looks back on those times with a clear sense of nostalgia. She remembers the old Filipino store, now known as Jan’s store, the town’s school before it was shut down, and the former Ishigo’s bakery, currently home to Mr. Ed’s Bakery.
“I think they still use the same pots and pans,” she says jokingly as she lets out a big laugh.
To her, Honomū has changed a lot. She remembers when the theater was up and running, when people of all faiths flocked into town to attend one of the five different churches that reside there today, and longs for the taste of the old noodle factory that used to be open in town.
Things have changed. New businessmen and women are opening up shop. New faces are coming and going and, for the most part, she’s OK with all of it.
“Overall, I would say that yes, I like the changes,” she says.
The Changes
Right now the changes of the downtown area are all thanks to the local business people working together to catch the eye of the visitors who pass through. While each vendor is looking to expand into the future, none of them have forgotten their past.
Take Mr. Ed’s Bakery for instance. Dean “Mr. Ed” Edmoundson opened the bakery in the old Ishigo building with his wife June in the early 2000s. June is fourth generation Honomū born and raised, and both of them take great pride in the area. He says he gets letters from people all around the world who left completely enamored by the town and its residents.
He also believes that life is really coming back to the streets of Honomū admitting, “Honomū has never looked better, which is really exciting.”
Dean believes people love visiting because there’s so much beauty to see and so many friendly locals who are sure to meet and greet everyone with a smile and warm aloha.
“I think it’s the best little town on the island. We have so many wonderful shops and recommend everyone come visit and take the time to visit every shop!” he says.
On the historic strip, there are multiple businesses that feature everything from locally grown coffee to beauty products, from jewelry to antiques.
David Ackerman has lived in Honomū for more than 30 years and is owner of the local antique shop Glass From The Past. In passing by the store, one might be easily intrigued by the variety of bottles sitting in the window that can be seen from the street. True to its name, the bottles are antiques that are dug up around the island. He also sells vintage aloha wear, vinyl records, plantation era items, and an eclectic assortment of other antiques.
In a way, David has been selling history for more than 15 years and says it’s the tourists on their way to the waterfall that have kept his doors open. It seems fitting that an antique shop resides in what could be described as an antique town, and the opportunity to rent the former Honomu Garage came in 1997, just as David was looking to expand.
“Not just anything could move in here,” he explains while pointing to the slanted concrete floors and explaining there were no windows.
While Glass From The Past has been able to maintain the building’s antiquity, other business owners have decided to refurbish their inner décor.
One of Honomū’s artist-in-residence, Michael Arthur Jayme, has a gallery a few doors down from David’s. Unlike David’s rustic vibe, Michael’s studio is clean, white, and bright with paintings. Stepping inside his doors is like walking into a modern museum.
Michael features work from 15 different local artists, including himself. He’s often found creating art in the back of the gallery or visiting with customers.
Michael says he had been traveling to the islands for many years and has always wanted to live there. He finally got his chance last year after selling his home in Arizona. When he moved, he brought with him his talent, vision, and expertise in the realms of all things of beauty, art and energy.
“I’m here on the corner in the heart of Honomū. The pieces that I represent are things that I would also like to own. I feel like they’re extraordinary, and why shouldn’t you in your travels pick up extraordinary things to add to your collection?” he says.
Next to Michael, is an artist studio featuring beautiful koa wood pieces by Aaron and Tamara Lewis. And just a few doors down is another woodshop gallery owned by Jeanette McLaren and her ‘ukulele builder and woodworker husband, Peter.
Jeanette says she first opened Woodshop Gallery in Honomū 21 years ago, where she sells gift items as well as clothing (aloha shirts included). To her, the town is attracting more visitors than ever.
She’s elated about the changes happening to Honomū since Jude Kleila from Honomū Express purchased some of the town’s real estate in 2012.
(Editor Note: See the story of Honomū Renaissance by Karen Valentine.)
The Future of Honomū
While the infrastructure of Honomū is evolving, it appears as if the people will remain the same and continue to maintain the pureness of the aloha spirit in all that they do.
Almost every business owner, new and old, has the same “talk story” attitude about life. Many of them can be seen chatting it up with customers, telling them stories about the old mill, talking about the historic banyan tree or reminiscing about the good old days.
“Everyone has a story,” Jeanette explains. “A lot of these little shops, the owners make or find the items themselves and that’s something visitors should see.”
She also encourages anyone new to the area to really take a deeper look at this humble community.
“Stroll around, have lunch in town and see the old stores and old history related to it. I would like people to stop and look at the shops in Honomū. Meet the people and the artists. Get to know us.”
Honomū is located about 13 miles north of Hilo along the Hāmākua Coast. The town sits at about 300 feet above sea level and is known for its perfect tropical weather. Akaka Falls State Park is the area’s main attraction. The park is known for its 422-foot waterfall. ❖
Contact writer/photographer Megan Moseley
