Warabi—Fiddlehead Ferns

By Sonia R. Martinez

Whether you know them as warabi (Japanese), ho‘i‘o (Hawaiian) or ostrich fern (most of the mainland), the fiddlehead ferns are the young, edible, tightly coiled shoots of the fern that resemble the end of a violin or fiddle. The shoots remain coiled for about two-weeks before they unfurl into the delicate, lacy greenery we are all familiar with.

The species most commonly found in Hawai‘i is the Pteridium aquilinum, which grows in temperate and sub-tropical regions. It was introduced to the islands by Japanese immigrants who value it mainly for the young stems rather than the unfurled coils. Certain varieties of the plant contain the carcinogenic compound Ptaquiloside and need to be cooked thoroughly before eating.

Fiddlehead ferns are a very rich source of antioxidants Omega 3 and Omega 6, high in iron and fiber, and loaded with Vitamins A and C. They retain a deep green color even after cooking, and the taste is similar to a combination of asparagus, green beans, and young, tender okra.

In Hawai‘i warabi is available to us year-round. If you have never gone fern hunting, find a friend who can take you the first time. It seems that fiddlehead harvesting areas are closely guarded secrets along the lines of keeping a favorite fishing hole protected from “poachers.”

Look for smooth, shiny, dark green coils covered with light tan “fuzz” or as some people call it, “onion skin.” Snap the stem off with your hand at the place where it gives the least resistance and gather them in a basket, bucket, or open container. On a hot day any wild edible will begin to decompose rather quickly in a plastic bag. Choose small, firm, brightly colored ferns with no sign of softness or yellowing. If not planning on using right away, refrigerate, tightly wrapped in wet towels, for no more than two days. They should be washed and the ends trimmed before cooking by steaming, simmering, or sautéing.

Warabi and Shrimp Salad

This salad was originally brought by my friend Jessie Hillinger to one of our frequent potluck dinners at Kolekole Beach Park.

1 bundle fiddlehead ferns
1 medium Maui onion, chopped in large pieces
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
1 pound shrimp (cooked, shelled, deveined)

Warabi or fiddlehead fern stalks usually can be found at the markets in large bundles. After washing, snap the stalks at the breaking point and cut into one and a half inch pieces including the slightly unfurled frond tips. Boil in rapidly boiling water for 3-5 minutes. Drain and cool.

Assemble the ingredients in a large bowl. Toss with dressing. Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish.

Dressing: (amounts to taste)
Aloha Shoyu (local brand soy sauce)
Honey (or sugar, if you prefer)
Chili pepper water**
Grated fresh ginger
Sesame oil

** Chili Pepper Water—Or as the locals call it, chili peppa wattah. Made with rice vinegar, Hawaiian sea salt, and tiny red hot Hawaiian chili peppers; some add a few crushed garlic cloves.

Warabi Cream Soup

4 cups fresh fiddleheads, washed and cleaned
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, sliced
4 cups chicken stock
1-1/2 cups milk, cream, or whipping cream
Salt and pepper, to taste
Garnish:
Zest from one lemon, cut finely
Paprika

Add the fiddleheads to a large pot of boiling water. Cook until they are almost tender, about 5 minutes. (Don’t be alarmed when you see your cooking water turning dark, with bits of frond in it. This is normal. In fact, if you strain the water, it may be added to other soups, supplying nutrients and good flavor. You may freeze it for later use.)

Drain and rinse with cold water. Chop coarsely and reserve.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the onion and cook until translucent, stirring occasionally; add the fiddleheads and sauté a few more minutes. Add some of the chicken stock, stir, and bring to a gentle boil. Cover and cook until fiddleheads are thoroughly tender, about 5 minutes.

Use a blender or food processor to blend the fiddleheads with some of the stock until smooth (you might have to do this in batches). Pour it back into the saucepan, add the rest of the chicken stock and the milk or cream, reduce heat to medium. Be careful not to boil or the milk might curdle.

Once dished, garnish with the lemon zest and paprika.

Serves 4 to 6.

If you like a very creamy soup, add less stock and more cream, or if your taste leans more toward lighter soups, omit the milk or cream altogether.
I found I did not need to add salt, and used a bit of freshly ground pepper.

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Contact writer Sonia R. Martinez: SoniaTastesHawaii.com