The Summertime Table

Smashed Potatoes with Swiss Chard Chimichurri

By Brittany P. Anderson

With her hands full of fiery red, bubble gum pink, and blazing yellow Swiss chard, Maria Shirley smiles revealing deep dimples in each of her cheeks. It is no small wonder how Dimple Cheek Farm was named. Her husband, Forrest, also possesses the trait and together with their four children form Dimple Cheek Farm. For Maria and Forrest Shirley, farming is a labor of love that has propelled their produce to being sought after by local chefs and residents alike.

I first met Maria and Forrest at the Hilo Farmer’s Market six years ago. At that time, the couple was farming on rented land in Ka‘ū. Giant heads of radiant purple cauliflower and striking broccoli romanesco would turn heads every Wednesday and Saturday. Eventually, the couple earned enough from the rented property to purchase their own equipment to farm the land Forrest bought in Volcano.

The family is known for their “beyond organic” farming practices – that is, sustainable, environmentally responsible, and ecologically beneficial beyond what is required for organic certification. They use composting tea and love to cultivate the earth. It is common for their children to be in the fields with them, snacking on freshly picked vegetables throughout the day. Utilizing chemicals is just not an option when the field is your children’s playground.

Maria was born in the Congo and spent many years living in a Tanzanian refugee camp. Through a US program of resettling refugees, Maria was brought to Washington State. After living outside all her life, transitioning to living and working indoors was difficult. She longed to have her hands in the dirt. When Maria and Forrest met, a story she tells me would take all day, he asked her if she wanted to farm. Maria replied with a resounding ‘yes!’

With a huge smile on her face, Maria hugs me close and tight. Seeing things grow makes her happy and her stunning produce is evidence that her life is full of happiness. After eight years of farming, Maria’s vegetables are highly regarded by local chefs and restaurants for their superior quality. The demand is so high the family can’t seem to pick it fast enough. Dimple Cheek Farm’s produce can be found on the menu at Hilo Bay Café, Conscious Culture Café, Café Pesto, and ‘Ōhelo Café. You can buy their produce for your own kitchen at The Locavore Store in Downtown Hilo and the Dimple Cheek Farm Stand located at 17-937 Volcano Road (Hwy 11) in Mountain View.

Maria and Forrest have created a large open air market at their farm stand serving as an ‘all things local’ access point for residents of Mountain View and Volcano. The stand boasts an assortment of locally sourced items including Hawai‘i Island grass fed beef, local pastured chicken, fresh breads, as well as a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables.

Dimple Cheek Farm’s Swiss chard has always been a favorite. The colors are vibrant and are not at all bitter as chard can be. My newest love coming out of Dimple Cheek Farm is the little red potato. We simply cannot get enough. At a recent trip to the farm stand I picked up several pounds of potatoes, a bunch of Swiss chard, and a variety of fresh herbs. I’ve combined my two favorite things into one dish loaded with flavor and color. Together, smashed potatoes with Swiss chard chimichurri are the perfect side to any summertime meal. ❖

Smashed Potatoes with Swiss Chard Chimichurri

• Mint, 2 tbsp. minced
• Thai basil, 2 tbsp. minced
• Parsley, 2 tbsp. finely chopped
• Cilantro, 2 tbsp. minced
• Olive oil
• Pinch of sea salt
• Swiss chard stalks, 4 tbsp. finely chopped
• 2 tbsp. red or white wine vinegar

Combine all herbs and Swiss chard stalks in small bowl. Add vinegar. Drizzle with olive oil until herbs are covered. Add pinch of salt. Stir to combine, set aside.

Smashed Potatoes

• 2 pounds of potatoes
• Melted butter or ghee

Boil potatoes until fork tender. Preheat oven to 350F. Drain potatoes thoroughly. Place each potato on parchment lined cookie sheet. Gently press potato with a potato masher until slightly flattened. Spoon ½ tsp. of melted butter or ghee onto potatoes. Place in oven and cook until edges are brown and crispy, approximately 20 minutes. Remove from oven. Spoon chimichurri onto potatoes and serve immediately.