Treasures from the Sea: A Unique Farmers’ Market Comes to Kona

By Devany Vickery-Davidson

Looking for live crabs and lobster? How about some local sea salt? Abalone? A free cooking class? Get the cooler out and head to NELHA! On the last Friday of each month Hawai’i Island residents are afforded a unique local seafood and other sustainable products at a one-of-a-kind farmers market in Kona. The venue is NELHA, the National Energy Lab Hawaii Authority, and the event is the Fish Farmers Market.

NELHA received a grant to host the market early in 2010 and the market started soon afterwards, in April. It was an immediate success, with close to 2,000 shoppers attending the first market. Since then, people have continued to support the concept and it is not uncommon for some to drive from far points of the island to shop at the market.

Earlier this year, NEHLA received a grant to host the Fish Farmer’s Market. This market was an instant success and is quite well attended. Many of the vendors offer educational components at the market. The commercial tenants make their products available to the public and local farmers are also encouraged to sell their wares on the lower level. Some of the companies even make special packaging and product for the market, as most of them only sell wholesale or to the resort restaurants; so it is a special treat for the general public to be able to purchase some of these products.

Some examples of the special offerings are:

• Cyanotech Corporation, a world leader in microalgae technology, produces BioAstin® Natural Astaxanthin and Hawaiian Spirulina Pacifica® – all natural, functional nutrients.
• Big Island Abalone Corporation operates a 10-acre aqua farm utilizing cold and pure deep seawater to produce Japanese Northern abalone for commercial sales. They sell small packages of live abalone and grill abalone on site.
• High Health Aquaculture, Inc. (HHA) is the global leading breeder and supplier of fast-growing, disease-resistant brood stock marine shrimp. HHA owns and breeds the world’s most diverse genetic collection of Specific Pathogen Free (SPF) shrimp, including Pacific White Shrimp, Pacific Blue Shrimp and Black Tiger Shrimp, and has supplied brood stock shrimp to 26 countries worldwide since 1994. They offer amazing, fresh and frozen shrimp at the market, something they normally would not produce.
• Kona Cold Lobsters, Ltd. imports live lobsters and crabs from natural Atlantic fisheries and rejuvenates them in cold, deep-seawater holding pens for distribution throughout Hawai‘i and select Asian and Pacific destinations. This is one company that does sell directly to the public. Their live lobsters, lobster tails, frozen claws and Dungeness Crabs are a real treat for Hawai‘i residents who enjoy these shellfish, normally not available on the Big Island. *See recipe for Garlic Dungeness Crab.
• Kona Deep Water Corporation is a multi-faceted company utilizing the natural and abundant resource of the pristine, pathogen-free, 3,000-foot-deep ocean water accessed from NELHA. It has developed a commercial bottling facility specializing in desalinated deep seawater products for the global market. A terrific bi-product of the companies that do desalinization is high-quality Kona Sea Salt, which is also available at the market.
• Kona Blue Water Farms, Kona Kampachi® is a Hawaiian yellowtail tuna that is open-ocean grown in the pristine waters off the Kona Coast of the Big Island—hatched, reared and harvested using state-of-the-art aquaculture technology, without depleting wild fisheries or harming the ocean environment.

Other regular vendors include Island Thyme Gourmet, which offers sausages from Hawaiian Red Veal, as well as ground Hawaiian Red Veal and scaloppini; Roy’s Hydroponic Produce; Coastview Aquaponics, Lyman Kona Coffee; Ahualoa Farms (mac nuts); Hawaiian B Natural Farms (tomatoes and peppers); Palani French Bakers (artisan bread); Big Island Kettle Corn; Honomu Jams; Kevin Hopkins sturgeon fillets; and Dan Jelks live catfish and tilapia. There is a wonderful stand selling fish tacos, ceviche, salsas and tostadas. Slow Food Hawai‘i also has an informational booth there.

The educational component is another unique feature of this monthly market. Well-known Hawaiian chef Olelo pa’a Faith Ogawa does cooking demonstrations (offering samples!) utilizing products available at the market. There are also educators on aquaculture, local tropical fruit and vegetables. The July market featured tropical fruit guru Ken Love, who gave a talk on local, tropical fruits. Pastry chef Hector Wong came from Honolulu to do a demonstration on fruit carving and decorating cakes with fruit. Michael Rosato, AIFD, of Island Orchard Florist did a floral and fruit arrangement demonstration accompanying chef Olelo pa’a Ogawa’s food demonstrations. Chris Smith of Coastview Aquaponics gave two presentations on growing your own food with an aquaponic system, which is a combination of aquaculture (growing fish) and hydroponics (growing plants without soil). Some of the markets also have live music.

NELHA is the complex north of Kailua-Kona and just south of the Keahole-Kona International Airport. As you drive by on Mamalahoa Highway, you can see the acres of solar panels and industrial-looking buildings. While it is mysterious to many island residents and visitors, NELHA is actually a scientific center which has always been on the cutting edge. The complex was first called OTEC when the Hawai‘i State Legislature created the Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawai‘i on 322 acres of land at Keahole Point in 1974. NELHA was mandated to provide a support facility for research on the ocean thermal energy conversion (OTEC) process and its related technologies. The scope of its research activities has expanded, and today NELHA is “landlord” to nearly 30 thriving enterprises, which generate $30-40 million per year in total economic impact. Two pipeline systems extract and pump deep and surface-level sea water to shore. The purity of this seawater makes an ideal medium for growth and cultivation of marine plants and animals.

NELHA has four classifications of tenants. Pre-Commercial are the companies which are hoping to one day make a viable product, Commercial are those that that are already selling products in a variety of ways, and Research and Educational classifications are self explanatory.

There is nothing like this market anywhere in the world. It is totally unique and a real gift to the people of Hawai’i Island and her visitors. The best way to know what is happening at each market is to become a fan of the market on Facebook. You can find it by doing a search for Big Island Fish Farmers Market at NELHA. It does not have a website at this time. The market is held once a month, on the last Friday, from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. at the NELHA Gateway Center just south of the Kona Airport. Restrooms and water fountains are provided. ❖

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Contact Devany Vickery-Davidson at PineapplePrincess@hawaii.rr.com.

Photos by Devany Vickery-Davidson