It’s No Secret: Huggo’s Is Invested in Making Kona a Better Place for Living and Eating

By Fern Gavelek

When Huggo’s opened its doors in 1969, restaurateurs Shirley and Hugo von Platen Luder knew they had a prime spot for oceanfront dining in Kailua-Kona. Now in its second generation in the same family and the oldest restaurant in Kailua village, one might ask what is its secret for survival when so many others have closed and/or changed hands many times during a 40-year span.

Location is king, but Huggo’s has stayed in tune with the times. It’s earned a reputation for fresh fish, a fun atmosphere and garnering numerous culinary awards; its owners are imbedded in community affairs; and, these days, the iconic restaurant is being noticed for its attention to social and environmental stewardship. Whether it’s cultivating its own produce organically, using “green” takeout cartons made from recycled products, or hosting a fishing tourney to benefit charity, Huggo’s is invested in making Kona a better place for living….and eating.

Recent efforts supporting sustainability include a new Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine menu that relies heavily on locally-sourced foods. The garden-to-table focus with small and large plate offerings debuted last fall under Executive Chef Konrad Arroyo, who joined Huggo’s in early 2009. Around the same time, Adam Trujillo, certified permaculture designer and member of the Hawai‘i Organic Farmers Association (HOFA), came on board to manage Huggo’s commercial urban vegetable garden.

“We had already been doing a restaurant garden but decided to hire a professional whose expertise is produce and who follows sustainable, organic practices,” says owner Eric von Platen Luder. “It’s quite an investment and takes three years to go organic.” (for certification after prohibitive substances have previously been used). Huggo’s garden is at an elevation of about 1,000 feet above Kailua-Kona at the von Platen Luder home.

Eric took over the reigns of the restaurant from his parents, Shirley and Hugo, in 1981 and today serves as president of Olu Kai, Ltd. The company umbrella includes Huggo’s, the adjacent Huggo’s on the Rocks and Paradise Gourmet Catering; the latter is operated by Scott Dodd and Chef Chris Fagan.

Under Trujillo’s management, the commercial garden employs all organic practices. “Waste from Huggo’s kitchen is composted at the garden and monitored to build soil,” explains the farm consultant who owns Hawai‘i Roots Down. Numerous herbs and leafy greens, plus beans, peas, peppers, sweet potatoes, taro and ti leaf are thriving in raised beds.

“I touch base with Chef several times a week to discuss what’s ready for harvesting and any upcoming specials or events,” details Trujillo.” Huggo’s gets ulu (breadfruit), taro, sweet potatoes, bananas and citrus from Trujillo’s own farm and is also privy to a food availability list that encompasses other local gardens cultivated by Hawai‘i Roots Down.

“Huggo’s has become an example for other businesses to invest in earth-wise efforts,” emphasizes Trujillo. “These efforts are proven to increase sales, reduce shipping and delivery costs, provide the consumer with fresh, locally grown organic food and help the environment.”

Chef Arroyo says Huggo’s relies on an additional collection of “quality local food producers” to fill its pantry. The hearts of palm featured in the house baby greens salad are from Puna Gardens, the novel fern shoots, which are expertly prepared tempura-style, hail from Hilo; while the ali‘i mushrooms in the herb-marinated chicken linguine are commercially grown in Laupahoehoe. “We use our own basil to make our macadamia nut pesto for the linguine,” chef adds.

Huggo’s serves Country Natural Beef (CNB), which Chef explains is a “consistent quality product” free of hormones and antibiotics. CNB is a co-op of ranches that subscribes to sustainable stewardship practices concerning land and animal management. After initially grass fed, CNB animals are finished for 90 days on grain, potatoes and hay at gathering feedlots. While Huggo’s beef has been sourced from CNB farms in the western Mainland U.S. and Hawai‘i, Chef says the beef will soon be coming solely from seven to 10 ranches in Hawai‘i.

Besides a 10-ounce cut of savory prime rib and a New York steak that’s complemented with sweet potato-taro gratin, Waialua asparagus and caramelized Maui onions, Huggo’s still offers its signature teriyaki steak—a tradition since 1969. “We tried taking it off the menu 15 years ago and there was almost a riot,” recalls von Platen Luder.

To insure Huggo’s doesn’t miss out on the freshest fish available, there’s a red phone in the kitchen known as the “fish hotline.” It’s dedicated to taking calls from fishermen who have just-caught fish to sell. The restaurant serves nearly 3,500 pounds of fresh fish each month—opakapaka, monchong, kampachi, moi, onaga, swordfish, ono, mahimahi and more. Pointing to a 150-pound ahi in the walk-in cooler, Chef says a butcher is on duty five days a week to “take care of the fish and proteins. It’s a chef’s delight.”

Seafood is great for sharing with Huggo’s “small plate” portions. Choose from freshly caught sashimi or ahi tuna poke prepared with Maui onions, Hawaiian chili peppers, a poi vinaigrette and exotic chips. Snack on Big Island farm-raised Kumamoto oysters, Kona lobster-ulu cakes or ginger-steamed clams with crispy long rice. The daily Island fresh catch is prepared with sichimi togarashi (Japanese collection of seven spices) and served with a creamy, sweet-potato puree, Asian sprout salad and a lemongrass haupia sauce. Other “large plate” seafood favorites include the grilled mahimahi with kabocha pumpkin risotto and local garden beans or the sesame-crusted, seared rare ahi with Forbidden Black Rice and green papaya salad.

Dessert at Huggo’s is sublime with the likes of ginger crème brulée and Pele’s Chocolate Tart. The towering chocolate cookie crust ice cream pies (choice of Kona coffee or mac nut) are an after-dinner must for many loyal Huggo’s diners. Fluffy haupia coconut cake is complimentary to anyone celebrating a birthday. “We support local businesses—Kailua Candy Company and Coffees ‘n Epicurea—by offering some of their desserts,” says Chef Arroyo.

Supporting others—whether local farmers, businesses or people in need—has long been a philosophy for the folks at Huggo’s. Huggo’s on the Rocks was the first location for the island’s HIV/AIDS fundraiser, Taste of Life, which Eric founded a dozen years ago with Scott Dodd, CEO of Paradise Gourmet Catering and Susanne St. John, a former Huggo’s accountant. Huggo’s annual Wahine Fishing Tournament marks its 15th year on July 31 and this year benefits Family Support Services of West Hawai‘i. Since its inception, the sporting event has given away $150,000 to different local charities.

Huggo’s participates in 11 culinary events each year that benefit charitable causes. The voluntary involvement costs between $1,500-$2,000 to pay for food, a day of preparation and attendance by a chef and helpers. “Of course we benefit from these events from a marketing standpoint as we get to show off our food and it gives us the opportunity to get feedback on new menu items,” notes Eric. “But we live in a small community and I feel it’s important for all businesses to care for the community and help those in need.”

Caring about what goes into the local landfill prompted Olu Kai, Ltd. to rethink its use of disposable products. Both restaurants and the catering division have switched to “green” disposables, sourced from Sustainable Island Products in Hilo. “These products are made from either recycled or sustainable materials that easily degrade and are made in an environmentally friendly way,” details von Platen Luder. “We are now foam-free.” ❖

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Did you wonder: Why the name is Huggo’s and not Hugo’s?
Eric says: “Huggo is actually Hugo (my dad’s) nickname. His father was also Hugo and classmates of his when he was a student at Punahou evidently gave him the nickname for reasons he will not reveal.”

Located on Ali‘i Drive north of the Royal Kona Resort, Huggo’s opens for dinner at 5:30 p.m. daily, serving until 9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and until 10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Dinner specials are posted on both Facebook and Twitter at 4:30 p.m. The cocktail lounge, where you can enjoy themed drinks like Da Green Flash and the party-sized Kilauea (served in a flaming bowl), opens 4 p.m. weekdays and 5 p.m. on weekends with nightly entertainment that includes piano and jazz. Dinner reservations recommended, 329.1493.

FYI: Back by popular demand are Huggo’s famous BBQ ribs, a mainstay on the restaurant’s luncheon menu for over 30 years. The savory treat is served next door at Huggo’s on the Rocks every Thursday. Rocks opens 11:30 a.m. daily with lunch until 5:30 p.m., followed by dinner until 10 p.m. and cocktails until midnight. Nightly entertainment starts swaying with 6 p.m. hula and continues under the stars with the likes of Hot Lava 808 or Grammy-nominated LT Smooth or Donald Kaulia. Find daily lunch specials on Facebook and Twitter at 11 a.m. Info: 329.1493 or visit huggos.com.

Email Fern Gavelek at ferng@hawaii.rr.com.