Cool as a Cauliflower, and a Recipe for Roasted Cauliflower with Pesto

By Brittany P. Anderson

Cauliflower is making a comeback as broccoli’s cooler, more versatile cousin. In supermarkets today, you can find riced cauliflower, cauliflower pizza crusts, even tortillas made from cauliflower. While it is now popping up in unexpected places, the strangely brain-like vegetable has been around for centuries.

A member of the Brassicaceae family, along with broccoli, cabbage, and mustards, cauliflower has a mysterious beginning. Ibn al-‘Awwam, an agriculturist in southern Spain in the 12th century, made the first direct notation of cauliflower, attributing its origin to the Mediterranean island of Cyprus in his exhaustive catalog on agriculture titled Kitāb al-Filā‘a, or in English, Book on Agriculture.

The name cauliflower, in most languages, can be directly translated to cabbage flower—an accurate description from the looks of it in the garden. The young cauliflower starts have leaves similar to cabbage yet as it grows, the white flower heads form in the middle instead of tightly bound leaves. Each plant produces just one dense mounded head, called a “curd.” The edible stage is just before the flowers on the curd open.

Cauliflower’s signature color is white, the absence of pigmentation from being shaded by the large leaves that surround the curd. In sunnier locations, it may take on shades of cream to yellow. There are even purple, green, and yellow cauliflower varieties.

Hawai‘i Island farmers grow cauliflower in cooler locations like Kamuela, Volcano, Mountain View, and higher elevations, where it does quite well. One variety of cauliflower that is adapted to slightly warmer conditions is the Puakea. Puakea is a white variety somewhat smaller than standard cauliflower with heads varying from three to four inches in diameter, a small price to pay to grow your own.

When purchasing cauliflower, look for hard, compact heads that are as white as possible. Look for consistent coloration, unblemished, and compact florets. Avoid heads if they are black, speckled, or soft.

There’s nothing better than cauliflower in Indian curry, pickles, or au gratin. In many Hawai‘i Island kitchens, cauliflower fried rice has become popular as a healthy alternative to the classic rice-based meal. It can take on so many flavors, making cauliflower an easy ingredient to hide or highlight depending on your dining companions.

A whole roasted cauliflower is stunning as a side or main dish.

Ingredients

1 cauliflower (about 1 to 1.5 pounds)
3/4 cup water
1 tablespoon coconut oil
Pinch of Hawaiian sea salt and black pepper

Pesto
1 Tbs lemon juice
½ cup lightly packed flat-leaf parsley leaves and Italian sweet basil
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup raw macadamia nuts
1 garlic clove, sliced
¼ tsp kosher salt
Pinch of black pepper

Method

First, make the cauliflower. Preheat oven to 400°F. Trim the cauliflower by removing any leaves, and cut the stem down so the curd sits flat. Pour 3/4 cup of water in an oven-safe dish (preferably with a lid), and place cauliflower in it. Rub cauliflower with coconut oil, then sprinkle a pinch of salt and pepper over it. Cover dish either with lid or foil and place in the center rack of the oven. Bake for 20–30 minutes, or until a knife easily cuts through the cauliflower.

While the cauliflower cooks, make the pesto. Place the parsley, basil, oil, lemon juice, macadamia nuts, garlic, salt, and pepper in a food processor. Pulse until well combined.

Remove cauliflower from oven and spread pesto all over the top. Serve immediately. Enjoy!