Culture,  Hawaii Island 2014 Jul–Aug,  People

Viewpoint: Ahu‘ena Heiau

Kahu Mikahala Roy

Publishers Note: The following mele and story, copyrighted by Mikalaha Roy, are in response to a story we published in the March/April 2014 issue. It is our desire to be pono by sharing more details on the history of the Ahu‘ena Heiau restoration. The content does not necessarily represent the views of Ke Ola Publishing, Inc.

This is a mele I composed in honor of my father telling of some of his footsteps in time.

Na Ho‘omeheu i Uka

Mai kahakai a i ke kula
E ‘ike i na mala ulu
Ulu i ke kalo, ulu i ka ‘ulu
Uhai loloa i ka ho‘omeheu

Powehi ka ho‘omeheu i uka
I ke kukulu ‘ana ma ka‘aina
Ku iwikuamo‘o e ho‘opale
Ia Kaluaokalani i Holualoa

Loloa e ka malo ia Holualoa
‘Aina ‘O Keolonahihi
‘O ke ala kapuali me ke ala hui
Ha‘i e na ‘oiwi i ka mo‘olelo

Kahi la‘a ho‘omaukeiki
Loa‘a i na lani ki‘eki‘e
Kapu loa ka papahana mamua
Ku kaua na ‘ailana pakahi

Kahi kapu ‘akoakoa o ka po‘e
Ka mauliauhonua o ia wahi
Lana ka pueo i ke kakahiaka
Me ka ‘io pu kau i ka lewa

He mele nou e Keli‘ihelemauna
Mai kahakai a i ke kula
Ulu i ke kalo ulu i ka ‘ulu
Uhai i na ho‘omeheu

Trails Mountainward

From the shorelines to the plains
See the dryland gardens
The kalo grows, the ‘ulu flourishes
Persistently, follow the trails

The trails mountainward are dim
Due to the building up on the land
Backbones rise to protect
Kaluaokalani in Holualoa

The long malo extends to Holualoa
Land of Keolonahihi
The Kapuali and the Hui trails
‘Oiwi, tell of the history

Sacred place of the ho‘omaukeiki ceremony
Where the Chiefs, the heavenly Ones before
Conducted ceremony in great reverence
When battles on every island ceased

Keolonahihi the gathering place
Established families of the land of that area
A pueo flew in the morning at meeting time
Alongside a hawk, flying above the families

Here is a song in your honor, Mountain-Roaming-Chief
As you encourage from shorelines to the plains
The kalo to grow, the ‘ulu to flourish
And the people to follow the trails of the ancestors

He Inoa No Keli‘ihelemauna

‘A‘ala Kupukupu Ke Ahu o Kamakahonu

He ‘onipa‘a ka‘oia‘i‘o

Mai ka po mai ka ‘oia‘i‘o

A Song in Honor of Kahu David Kahelemauna Roy, Jr.

Fragrant with Ferns Is the Altar of Kamakahonu

Truth is not changeable

Truth comes from the night

‘Olelo No‘eau: Hawaiian Proverbs and Poetical Sayings

Truth is so highly prized by ‘Oiwi (people of the bones and the first people of Hawaii) that the greatest temples of worship in the islands at the time of Kamehameha the Great were those dedicated to Ku, the god of truth in righteousness.

Ahu‘ena Heiau was such a temple prior to being re-dedicated to Lono by Kamehameha-the-Great. Ahu‘ena Heiau, Kamehameha’s personal temple was restored in 1975 by a team of Kanaka Maoli (Hawaii firstborn) led by Kahu David Kahelemauna Roy, Jr. It is the first restoration of the breath of life of a religious temple in the Hawaiian Islands of the modern era. Every repair since that great event is a pahonohono mapele or refurbishing of the Heiau dedicated to Lono.

photo by Fleur Weymouth
photo by Fleur Weymouth

David Roy was first appreciated by his lahui (Hawaiian people) and Hawaii communities as Kahu (spiritual guardian) for his commitment to Ahu‘ena Heiau. Then, in 1993, the state of Hawaii confirmed him in a Memoradum of Agreement as the Temple’s Kahu. The ‘Aha‘aina Kumu Pono, (Gathering for the True Foundation) celebration was held at Kamakahonu. At that time, the Royal Order of Kamehameha bestowed its highest award to the Kahu conveyed by Dr. Yoshioko Sinoto of the Bishop Museum.

In addition to the restoration and care of Ahu‘ena Heiau until he passed in 2005, Roy prepared Ku‘emanu Heiau and Hikiau Heiau for restoration and served as chairman of the Kamoa Point advisory commission that set the foundations for the future care of Keolonahihi and Kaluaokalani. He did the same for Kaloko-Honokohau in Kona. These works invigorated the traditional practices of communication between ‘Oiwi with our Ancestors related to the temples of the land. What constitutes a restoration? And what is a Kahu?

Heiau, spiritual temples in Hawaii, represent the connection of ‘Oiwi to our Source. They are the revered manifestation of the kumulipo (source of life). The heart of a Heiau restoration is the “collective” heart of the people. In 1975, Kanaka Maoli involved with Ahu‘ena Heiau represented their connection to the ancestors back to the very Creator of heaven and earth. The loving intent in the hearts of these men as they worked represented all ‘Oiwi everywhere. In France’s famed cathedral of Notre Dame, words are inscribed into the stained glass windows of that sacred edifice by its artisans.

The words are “the work of their hands is their prayer.”

A Kahu holds a kulana, (station) with a kuleana (responsibility) to Ka ‘I (Divine Creator). In brief, a Kahu holds a kuleana for the spiritual and physical well being of, in this case, Ahu‘ena Heiau and Kamakahonu. It is a kuleana to the past, present and the future. Where there is more than one individual involved, they will be of one heart and mind and of one direction.

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Reconstruction was the physical aspect of the full restoration of Ahu‘ena Heiau begun in 1975. American Factors, descendant business of Hackfeld & Co. had built the original Hotel King Kamehameha prior to 1960 and desired to build the “New Hotel King Kamehameha” in the mid-seventies. Hawaiians and the greater community said no to the project. Community leaders were sought to help Amfac find success in their goals. Plans included imploding the original and building a larger hotel. There were good reasons for resistance to these plans—not the least of which was that this was an extreme undertaking at the location of ke Kapitala Mua o Hawaii, the first Capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii.

The Office of Hawaiian Affairs had not been established in 1975 and not even Kamakahonu’s designation as a national historic landmark could ensure that the state’s historic preservation department would protect the first Capital of the Hawaiian Islands in truth and integrity. There were no safeguards in place to protect spiritual practices and sacred properties, including burials—just the honor held by the human businessmen, government workers and Kanaka Maoli. The adage, “every man who has honor is a King” guided this effort as it moved into the hands of the people.

Bishop Museum provided the contractual framework required by business standards and this is when my father as the superintendent of the project selected the men and conducted the guidance for the restoration of the life of this temple. This is the element that could not be provided by western scientists. From start to finish and beyond, Ahu‘ena Heiau’s restoration and subsequent care has been in the hands of Akua (Divine Creator).

Kahu David Roy and the community fostered the formation of two non-profit organizations to support his guidance for the temple. First Ahu‘ena Heiau Inc. (AHI) formed in 1993, then Kulana Huli Honua (KHH) (Foundation of the Search for Wisdom) in 1999. KHH formed to support traditions, advocate for protection and restoration and establish land archives to keep the wisdom of this and other sacred properties. Governor Linda Lingle acknowledged a declaration of purposes for the work of these two non-profits in a letter dated 11/20/2006. “We acknowledge that Kahu David Kahelemauna Roy played a critical role in the reconstruction of Ahu‘ena Heiau and its associated structures during 1975.”

No matter how much more needed to be done at any given time on the temple, it was always adored by its Lord and adorned to its best condition for each and every Kamehameha Day. This was for the respect of our Ancestors and for the pride of each and every Kanaka Maoli on earth. The restoration of ‘75 is characterized by years of meticulous and ongoing research, rigorous and efficient planning and cooperative effort.

photo by Halau No‘eau Kahelemauna
photo by Halau No‘eau Kahelemauna

Would a Japanese corporation desecrate a Shinto shrine? Would an American corporation destroy a Christian cross with the Savior upon it? There are spiritually guided protocols to be followed in the abiding care of Ahu‘ena Heiau. First of all, harmony is the requirement for life throughout Kamakahonu.

The restoration of Ahu‘ena Heiau provides a strong reminder to future generations that such work is important. It is for this reason that business leaders associated with American Factors created lawful land covenants with the state of Hawaii to abide ‘with these lands’ throughout changes in time. The Spirit of the memorandum of agreement requires all land tenants to promise to uphold respectfully and with honor the dignity of the lands of ke Kapitala Mua o Hawaii (First Capital of Hawaii).

All ensuing landholders here since Amfac have honored these land covenants. Conditions changed in 2007 and since then, the disrespect of the spiritual protocol and the heightened promotion of Ahu‘ena Heiau as a backdrop for a commercial lu‘au fails to uphold the sacredness and sanctity of Kamakahonu.

The Spirit of the Ancestors of ‘Oiwi descending from Divine Creator, remains and guides at Kamakahonu. The Kingdom of Hawaii unified by Kamehameha the Great abides at Kamakahonu. Here, over the years, by our actions and by our words, we have told of the generational love given by ‘Oiwi for Akua, for their ancestors, for their rulers, for the love for their beginnings in heritage and hope for their country. We’ve shared the stories of inspirational acts in history and the customs of ‘Oiwi to inspire future leaders among ‘Oiwi.

Kamakahonu’s light is the beacon for the world that its always been. We move into times of great hope for the planet and all life upon the planet. Residents of Hawaii are all seated in the cradle of transformation—a fireplace in the Home of Ka ‘I-lala-‘ole (Supreme-One-Without-Branches).

Ancestors of ‘Oiwi paved the way for those of us who follow, to help & heal all life on the planet by fostering aloha kekahi i kekahi (love one for another). So let us pay attention here at Kamakahonu. Ancestral wisdom shares that giving your essence here, where you feel you can, aids the abiding cumulative light of healing for the world.

E ‘oni wale no ‘oukou i ku‘u pono, ‘a‘ole e pau
Go on in the righteousness I have followed; it is not finished.
Kamehameha-the-Great

‘O Kamakahonu Ahu Kupukupu

‘O Kamakahonu ahu kupukupu
Hanu ‘a‘ala i ka ua loku
Iho mai la e ka ua
I ka ‘ili o ka Pahuali‘i

‘Ili‘ili leo‘ole i ka ‘ihi kapu
Noho ‘O Koleamoku i ke ‘alaneo
Pi‘i ‘O Lono i ka la ma kahikina
Pa‘a ka paehumu o Ahu‘ena

‘Ena‘ena e ke ahi o na ‘Aumakua
‘Olu‘olu mau no i ke alaka‘i
I ka lehulehu akahai ke nonoi aku
Na mea e hiki mai ai

Ke hele ne‘ine‘i nei
I ka pa‘ume‘ume mau
Homai ka no‘eau o na kupuna
Ho‘aho ka manawa o ke Akua

Na ‘ilina kapu ma Kaiakeakua
Ho‘omakaukau ‘ia ka pono ala hele
No ke ola o ka ‘aina
No ke ola o ka lahui

Ha‘ina ia mai ana ka puana ‘O Kamakahonu ahu kupukupu
Iho mai la e ka ua loku
I ka ‘ili o ka Pahuali‘i

Kamakahonu, Fragrant Shrine

Kamakahonu is the shrine of the kupukupu
Scent so fragrant in the downpour
Rain falling
Upon the skin of the drum of the chiefs

Stone pebbles soundless in reverence
Koleamoku dwells in sublime silence
Lono rises in the suxn from the east
Secure is the sacred enclosure of Ahu‘ena Heiau

The fire of the ‘Aumakua burns brightly
They are always pleased to guide
The humble company who ask
Those who come

Taking very short steps
In an abiding tug-of-war
Wisdom of the Ancestors is given
Wait upon Divine Creator

By the sacred resting places at Kaiakeakua
There has been prepared a right of way
For the life of the land
For the life of the nation

The refrain is told
Kamakahonu, shrine of the kupukupu
Here the rain falls
Upon the drum of the chiefs

At the rising of Makali‘i in November of 2004, an unusual downpour of rain fell upon Kamakahonu and Kailua. Pahuali‘ikoaoka‘awaloa is the first temple drum named in over 200 years and the first drum sounded in association with a religious temple of ‘Oiwi of the modern era. The drum, made by Kahu David K. Roy, Jr. to honor Kamehameha I, is sounded every year at the rising of Makali‘i, constellation Pleiades. During the 2004 ceremony held at Ahu‘ena Heiau the rain fell so heavily, it was as if the rain sounded the drum that day.

All content in this story copyright © Mikahala Roy, Kahu Ahu‘ena Heiau, Kamakahonu. Published with permission of the author.