Ka‘apuni da Big Island (Keep on Pedaling)
By Lillian Lim
It was late summer 2020 and Covid had already changed island life dramatically. One of the joys that still remained and could be safely done without risk to others was cycling. One afternoon, a handful of cyclists, who have been riding together a few times a week for more than seven years, put their bikes back in their truck beds and racks following their usual 25-mile ride, starting and ending in Waikoloa Resort. These cyclists came up with an idea and on October 11, 2020, nine of them plus a non-cycling spouse who drove a support “sag” (support and gear) truck began their five-day journey to ka‘apuni—circumnavigate the entire island, by road bicycle.
Mac Amos, a north Kohala resident, remembers, “We wanted to turn these times around and enjoy our island, while at the same time, patronize our hard-hit local businesses.” Of the nine kūpuna cyclists, ages ranged from 55, to four people in their 70s. The oldest, Mac, celebrated his 77th birthday that same month. The other eight participants were Hal Baas, Kathy Baas, Debby Ciambrone, John Ciambrone, Marcie Davis, Lillian Lim, Gene Russell, and Maddie Turner. The “sag” truck driver was Guy Davis, who has since become a regular cyclist with the group. Following is their travelogue.
Waikoloa Village to South Kona
The 239-mile journey began with a swift downhill ride from Waikoloa Village to Queen Ka‘ahumanu Highway, with the cyclists wearing their signature Ka‘apuni da Big Island—Keep Pedaling bike jerseys. Gene, a resident of Hawi and an experienced cyclist who had circumnavigated Hawai‘i Island before, specially designed the jerseys along with sports tees for this cycling adventure. The initial 25 miles south were familiar ground to all the cyclists who made their lunch stop at the series of eateries on Makala Boulevard in Kailua-Kona. A few miles later into their journey the cyclists began a monstrous seven-mile incline from sea level to 1,500 feet and an overall elevation gain of 2,281 feet. According to rider Debby, “What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.” A fellow intrepid rider, Hal replied, “The only failure is not to try.” The rest said nothing because most were focused on just breathing hard and moving slowly forward and up the Māmalahoa Bypass.
The cyclists enjoyed a beautiful sunset and dinner in Captain Cook, spending their first night at a breathtaking property overlooking the ocean and the iconic St. Benedict Painted Church in South Kona.
Captain Cook to Volcano
The next day’s (approximate) 85-mile journey took the cyclists from Captain Cook through rolling rural and forested areas to Nā‘ālehu and onward to Volcano Village. That evening was spent at the historic Kīlauea Lodge. The riders enjoyed take-out food from a restaurant in Volcano. Breakfast the following day was in another outdoor setting in Volcano.
Volcano to Hilo
Volcano to Hilo was a quick 40-mile descent from 4,000 feet elevation to sea level. The cyclists enjoyed the starkly beautiful setting dropping to a corridor of urban vitality surrounded by green growth and hidden homes on any turn off the main highway. The night was spent at a hotel on Banyan Drive.
Hilo to Honoka‘a
They faced their next challenging ride, approximately 50 miles, venturing from Hilo to Honoka‘a. Cyclists Marcie and Maddie described the ascents and descents, switchbacks and horseshoe turns, elevated bridges, coupled with jaw dropping views of crags, cliffs, and ocean as “breathtaking.” The cyclists enjoyed authentically made tacos and tamales and talked-story at a 5-star Yelp reviewed Mexican Café near Pa‘auilo. The night was spent at a B&B near Waipio Valley, with breathtaking views, fabulous food, and plenty aloha.
Honoka‘a to Waikoloa Village
The last 40 miles were filled with rolling climbs on old Māmalahoa Highway through forested lands and a gradual descent to grasslands and pastures. Neighbors and friends spotted the intrepid riders as they traveled through Waimea in their signature jerseys.
With only a few more miles left of their 239-mile journey, the cyclists traveled the long, wide-open stretches of Māmalahoa Highway and then made a speedy descent into Waikoloa Village. “No rain and no injuries and only two flat tires,” cyclist Lillian exclaimed to her fellow riders, while sipping a celebratory iced tea in Waikoloa Village.
The Ka‘apuni group is not a formal cycling club—itʻs open to both visitors and residents who enjoy cycling. Their regular riders include residents of Hawai‘i Island and also Alaska, Nevada, California, Oregon, and Canada. Recent cyclists visiting from Girona, Spain have joined their rides, as well. The group has also joined together to go on cycling vacations including Catalonia, Spain and is planning future trips to Croatia, Japan, and/or Tahiti. ❖
All photos courtesy of Ka‘apuni da Big Island
For more information: Lillian Lim: LillianYLim@yahoo.com
