Hilo Coffee Mill: More Than Java
By Devany Vickery-Davidson
Most people immediately think of Kona when you say Hawai‘ian Coffee. But things are changing in that realm. There is fine coffee being grown on other islands and there are fantastic coffees being grown in Hilo, north along the Hamakua Coast, in Puna and most notably in the region of Ka‘u directly south of Volcano on small hand-tended estates. Now in its second year is the Ka‘u Coffee Festival—the first weekend in May. Ka‘u coffees have recently won many international cupping awards. Before “King Cane” reigned in East Hawai‘i, there was coffee. In 1898 there were more than 6,000 acres of coffee being grown in East Hawai‘i. Many of those acres have been reclaimed by coffee growers today, using natural, pesticide-free methods.
All those coffee beans need processing, in order to turn it into the brew-ready, roasted and packaged product. The Hilo Coffee Mill, just west of Hilo in Mountain View, processes a good share of the East Hawai‘I coffee beans. Inside the welcoming buildings on the road to Volcano are 3,000 square feet of space dedicated to the café, store and roasting room. On the 24 acres surrounding the mill are several acres of coffee plants, bananas, fruit trees and ornamental indigenous plantings with flocks of chickens wandering about. All of this developed from what once was a large sugar plantation that had been overgrown into a jungle, when partners Jeanette Baysa and Katherine Patton bought the land and made it into what it is today.
Jeanette and Katherine moved to the Big Island from O‘ahu, where they were bank managers for Bank of America. Between the two, they had more than 54 years of banking experience. Their business background melded with their passion for bringing quality, fine-roasted coffees to East Hawai‘i and eventually to the world at large. In 1999 they (along with two partners that were since bought out) opened a small kiosk in the Prince Kuhio Plaza, Hilo’s large enclosed mall. The kiosk was a success, but the two women knew they had to take it to another level. They gutted and rehabbed an old karaoke bar in the Hilo Shopping Center and named it Kope Kope (Kope means coffee in Hawaiian.) They created an intimate space for people to gather, drink coffee, work on their laptops and listen to local musicians.
In February of 2001, desperation for finely roasted coffee led the partners to create a coffee roasting facility in the Shipman Business Park. There were seven original founders in the business, five remain today. Of those, four had more than 20 years of coffee farming and processing experience. One was a graphic artist who designed the company logo, featuring seven leaves and seven coffee cherries, symbolizing the seven founders. It was there that they perfected the fine art of roasting and established standards of properly roasted fresh beans. For three years they juggled both the retail café and the roasting business as word spread about their fine roasted coffees. Finally in 2004 the pair sold Kope Kope and dedicated themselves to roasting and eventually growing fine coffee. Their dream grew and they bought the property that would eventually become what is now the Hilo Coffee Mill. Today, it is East Hawai‘i’s largest coffee mill and is growing in reputation as a destination for visitors, who eventually become mail order customers.
The mill not only grows, but also buys local coffees from around the state of Hawai‘i. All green beans purchased must meet the standards of 100 percent, pesticide-free beans. The mill also advises its approximately 40 estate growers on the varieties of coffee to plant and the proper types of fertilizer to use at various points of the growing season.
Visitors to the Hilo Coffee Mill may also partake in one of two different tours. There is the abbreviated, free tour, which shows people how the coffee is grown, harvested, hulled and roasted, or a more elaborate, customized tour with luncheon. All tours offer free tastings of the mill’s roasts in the Latte Da Bar at the Mill, which features the original kiosk where the business had its beginnings. The café offers far more than just coffee and teas. Lunches and to-go menu items round out the offerings and there are always sweets and pastries available as well as locally-made Hilo Homemade Ice Creams. Naturally the most popular flavor is the 100 percent Ka‘u Coffee Ice Cream. Another popular treat is called “Black Eye.” It is a scoop of the coffee ice cream with an indentation that holds a shot of espresso. Lots of locally made items fill the shelves of the store, along with coffee beans and teas, soaps, coffee and espresso makers, grinders, roasters, burlap logo bags, gift items, music, candies and logo wear. Many of these items are also available in their online store.
The mill is also becoming famous for the local staple, Portuguese bean soup. With days at Mountain View cooler and wetter than on the coasts, the soup makes a soul-warming afternoon meal.
In December 2009, the Hilo Coffee Mill started a new 100 percent local Farmer’s Market on Saturday mornings. A hot breakfast is available for $5, featuring a special breakfast each week. Some offerings are teriyaki steak and eggs, Portuguese sweet bread French toast, breakfast burritos and other special breakfasts. If you subscribe to the mill’s newsletter, you will get an e-mail informing you of what will be at the market each week, including the breakfast. While the market is still growing, there is a full complement of local produce, micro greens, flowers, hearts of palm, breads, fresh pastas, plants, furniture, koa crafts, rotisserie chicken, local honey, rabbits and much more. The mill sells produce from its gardens, beautiful eggs, special salsa, coffee maple syrup, coconut candy and breakfast cooked to order. Live music rounds out the day. Hours are Saturdays from 7 a.m. till noon. ❖
For more information:
www.HiloCoffeeMill.com
M-Sa 7-4
17-995 Volcano Road, Mountain View, HI
808.968.1333
Email Devany Vickery-Davidson at pineappleprincess@hawaii.rr.com.
